Oakmoss should be avoided by people with known skin sensitization issues. He says that Joy, for example, has been tested in vivo on generations of women since its creation in 1930 "and nobody has complained". "But it's up to the big brands to keep fighting.". They have citrus top notes, along with Cistus labdanum (a resin that comes from Mediterranean shrubs), and oakmoss provides the distinctive musky base notes. "They want a monopoly," he says, pointing out that the high-end French perfume business, the capital of which is in Grasse, makes up only 1 per cent of the flavours and smells industry, which includes shampoos and detergents. Will a ban on oakmoss kill the French perfume industry? ), has listed oakmoss as a restricted ingredient. "This is not the first time the regulation has been amended and keeping up can be a challenge," the spokesman continues. It's restricted to very low levels (the allowed levels differ based upon whether it's a fragrance, a soap, a lip balm, etc). The best known fragrances containing oakmoss include the orginal versions of Chanel No 5 and Miss Dior, Some of the ingredients used to create fragrances. Some Side Effects Of Oakmoss Oil. The health benefits of oakmoss are many, but it does have some side effects. The proposals for the new restrictions are now being reviewed by expert groups in the EU member states before coming into force next year. Jasmine from Grasse on the French Riviera, one of its core ingredients, costs €70,000 (£56,000) per kilo. "If you buy lipstick, for example, where do you think there's room for a list of 83 ingredients?" The IFRA, a body who regulates the guidelines for safe usage of fragrant chemicals and essential oils in perfumes (you see why they shorten their name?! It allows our most engaged readers to debate the big issues, share their own experiences, discuss real-world solutions, and more. Edit2: If anyone is interested, this document explains the rationale and cites the particular studies used in making the decision. For Lucia Caudet, the EU spokeswoman for industry, the matter comes down to the scientific committee's finding that atranol and chloroatranol were "unsafe". There are those, though, who argue that the luxury high-end perfume industry, riven with personal rivalries and secrets, is its own worst enemy. But Fontaine is also an independent nose who puts himself out to tender to create perfumes for other luxury brands, including Jean-Louis Scherrer, Lubin and Worth. Only one synthesised molecule, a powder called evernyl, comes anywhere close to reproducing the oakmoss smell, she says. "We've been taken hostage.". You may not agree with our views, or other users’, but please respond to them respectfully, Swearing, personal abuse, racism, sexism, homophobia and other discriminatory or inciteful language is not acceptable, Do not impersonate other users or reveal private information about third parties, We reserve the right to delete inappropriate posts and ban offending users without notification. Our global community is a place to connect, discuss, and share fragrance knowledge and experience. Oakmoss blends well with cypress, geranium, lavender, neroli, and patchouli oil. Under a European Commission ruling expected to come into force next year, two elements contained in this oakmoss are to be banned. Don't let that mis-direct you from the truth. Click Restricted Mode. The committee has pointed to an "exceptionally high" number of allergy cases linked to HICC, which is a synthetic molecule. You can find our Community Guidelines in full here. The list below shows some of the oils, with their common name, botanic name as well as other common names it might be known under. Oakmoss is highly valued as a fixative agent in perfumery, for its ability to anchor more volatile fragrance notes, and add a rich undertone and smoothness to all perfume types (oriental, floral, chypre, etc). * Some perfumers have already begun to adapt their scents. The advisory committee said that commercial fragrances and other scented cosmetic products can provoke dermatitis, in patch tests as well as in simulated use conditions.